Hanoians have lived through the privation and destitution resulted by the lingering wars and the ineffective subsidy period; it was the time when foodstuff supply was limited by ration coupons and food stamps. But it’s never stopped us from craving for a cold beer, we stood in lengthy queues to buy bia hơi – the locally brewed draft beer.
Subsidy Period
The mentioned subsidy period (thời bao cấp), from 1975 to 1986, was when the government controlled all productions. Goods were distributed through state-own stores, people could only buy the amount of items said in their ration coupons.
Everything was therefore in scarcity – especially a highly coveted and strictly allotted ration of fresh draft beer. To buy beer, people had to bring their ration book to state-owned stores, where indifferent officers would only sell the allowed quota and record the sales in a ledger to prevent over-purchase.
Like many other goods, buying beer required patience. People often had to queue for a long timewaiting for their turn to buy the meager amount of beer allocated to their conditions. Even if you had money, you could not buy more than anyone else.
Socialist Oriented Market Economy
The socialist oriented market economy was applied in 1986, which allowed private businesses and kick-started economic changes in Vietnam. Almost immediately, hundreds of privately-owned bia hơi appeared in the city of Hanoi. In the following years, signs of “Bia hơi Hanoi” were seen everywhere.
Bia Hơi Các Cụ
While ration coupons are no longer required to purchase beer today, many people still live the nostalgic atmosphere at a few places in Hanoi. Bia hơi Các Cụ is one of those spots, it retains to the original state-run cooperative vibe. Customers got to stand in line to purchase a “service ticket”, and wait to get their own draft beer.
My friend and I went there for bia hơi this afternoon. The place opens from 16h00, but when we arrived, there were dozens of people queued up, waiting for the beer, while many others were already toasting over small plastic tables and low chairs. The vibe often means either the beer is good or the eatery atmosphere is special, either way, it’s a great place to be.
There are the coupons, the queue, the jug, the mint green glasses (bubble glass), and the ultimate satisfaction of holding a fresh draft beer. No where else is more Hanoi than that!
Joined the growing crowd of customers, of all ages, and many of them are members of sport clubs come to drink bia hơi after playing. We went to the counter to buy coupons, queued to exchange the beer, and got our own seats.
Most people we met today have been coming for decades. For them, drinking bia hơi there is not just a post-exercise treat, but also a way to relive cherished memories.
“I like drinking here because the beer quality is good, retaining to its original flavor, and the experience of queuing reminds me of the gone subsidy era. This is perhaps the last stronghold of subsidized beer in all of Hanoi.” said Dan, my drinking friend.
After a couple of beer, we noticed the queue at the payment and beer collection counter grew longer. Between 17:00 and 18:00, the whole place was packed with people, making it difficult to find a table or chair.
The beer here, at 14,000 VND (USD 0.54) per glass and 70,000 VND per jug, is cheaper than at most other places. However, the price is only a secondary consideration. The best part of having bia hơi is that you get to experience the local hanging out scenes, where a mostly male clientele sit around and share their daily experiences over a cold beer.
Looking for a place to try the famous local draft beer? Follow many of our guests and find your way here to experience the real bia hơi Hanoi, you won’t be regret.
Bia Hơi Các Cụ @ 115 Quan Thanh Street. Opening hours: 16:00 – 18:30 daily. Closed on holidays.
